
It’s a chilly,breezy day here,but a kayak with amas and a bat-wing sail is out on the water and a few other folks and getting their boats ready. Getting ready to do a serious tour.
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This is a continuation of the story of my 2011 camp cruise in my skin-on-frame outrigger canoe AL DEMANY CHIMAN (the introductory post and map is here). There were a few items I thought it would be useful to touch upon in summary. Muscongus Bay This leads me to muse,however:where was everyone?! It was the week of the Fourth of July,weather was amazing,and I ran into three other sets of campers (two on the first night,on a different island,and two using motor boats). I didn’t even see many cruising sailboats! How can people be missing this spot?! It makes no sense. People are missing out! The Maine Island Trail Look,I am clearly not an expert in water trials,but they do fascinate me and I have done some research on some which are closer to home here in DC. The characteristics above seem like what you need in a true water trail:camping all along the trail,a long and/or deep possible voyage,and excellent resources for planning a trip and using the trail. I haven’t seen that elsewhere. The Patuxent Water Trail is close by and certainly covers a lovely stretch of water,but it offers only about three camping spots and those are all in one general area. The Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail [gasp for breath] is really a collection of sites,with a few local trails,none of which have the same kind of water-convenient camping. I was able to find similar smatterings of not-really connected,not really camp-friendly trails in North Carolina. I know it isn’t easy to get trails done like MITA has,especially here in a more developed area. My point is not to criticize these other efforts as much as it is to hold up MITA’s stunning achievement as an example others should try to emulate. We need more trails like Maine’s and there are plenty of other waterways with strong potential. In the meantime,get out on the Maine Island Trail and support MITA! AL DEMANY CHIMAN as a camp cruiser The good
The bad
My speed Overall,I am extremely pleased with the boat and the trip! This is a continuation of the story of my 2011 camp cruise in my skin-on-frame outrigger canoe AL DEMANY CHIMAN (the introductory post and map is here). Day 3,In which we log some miles My original plan was to paddle up some intriguing looking narrow passages to Friendship,then head west back into the main body of the bay and up the Medomak River to Hungry Island. I set out as planned between Friendship Long Island and Cranberry Island,the first narrow passage I had seen. The tide was dead low,so it was an especially narrow waterway,but no problem for us. It was one of those gunkholing experiences that make camp cruising so exciting. When I got to the end,though,and glanced to the east and realized,in consulting the chart,that the northern set of Georges Islands were not far away. I decided to follow the next narrow passage,between Friendship Long Island and Morse,and the circle around the north side of Morse to emerge back in the same bay by Gay Island. This I did,feeling excited that the weather was again letting me get further afield. As I passed south of Caldwell,enjoying the day fully,I again looked east and saw that Port Clyde was not a great stretch more. I needed water anyway,and,in stopping there,I could tag the eastern edge of Muscongus Bay. I pushed on and bummed water,inadvertently,from the owner of a private dock. Not my fault you have your own dock that looks like a small marina,pal! Actually he was very gracious and impressed by my voyage. I spun back out of Port Clyde in a freshening breeze and hard a long pull across the mouth of the St. Georges River. I had noted another interesting narrow passage,Pleasant Point Gut,and the tide more than made this stunning channel accessible to me. I still had barely stopped for a rest,never mind lunch,but I pushed on towards Friendship as the afternoon was creeping by. I finally grabbed a quick bit at the northern tip of Friendship Long Island,gazing out at the only Friendship Sloop to be seen there. Under still sunny skies and a solid afternoon breeze,I headed through Friendship Harbor,buzzing a nice-looking motorsailer,and west to Martin Point and the Medomak. There I turned mostly down wind and had an easy final couple miles to Hungry Island,arriving at 5:30 tired,but not exhausted. Again I was alone and again the spot was pretty,with views across to some small islands and,to the side,down the bay. I unhurriedly pitched camp and then glanced through the trees to the west to see ominous clouds. NOAA was reporting severe storms to the south,but I just got rain and nearby thunder. The weather coming in created some amazing clouds,though. Day 4,In which we steal away,again,to Thief Island Thief is a stunning island,particularly in a nice,clearing northwesterly. It is in the middle of the bay and is high enough to afford views well up the bay and off to the east and west. I was alone,as before,and was able to select a lovely camp site right on the bluff above the rocky beach. I walked around the island,greatly annoying an osprey on the nest,and catching sweeping views to the south. I got treated to a lovely sunset before climbing into bed and falling asleep to a loon calling. Day 5,In which all good things… Day 1,In which we get our keel under us I decided to put into Crow Island for lunch and suddenly found it lost in the fog,even though it is only about 50 yards off Hog. I set a compass course and put my whistle in my teeth and gunned it safely to the little island. There I found some older guys blasting old-timey country music and a nice beach where I had lunch and pondered the fog. With the fog still thick after lunch I paddled back to Hog and headed south along its shore,hoping for some clearing. I thought I’d head to Thief Island instead of the planned Black. Soon the wind came up and visibility improved,but,as NOAA had suggested,somewhat threatening clouds appeared. I landed on Louds Island to dump water from the ama and thought some more about the next steps. In retrospect I could have made it,but,with a longish upwind pull ahead of me,uncertain weather,and an ama I suddenly didn’t trust as much,I turned back to the campsite on Hog Island for the night,feeling like I hadn’t made it very far. On Hog I found some locals having a 4th of July picnic and gathered more interest in –and compliments on –the boat. I made camp as the fog rolled back in hard. After a couple hours the locals left and I was alone in thick fog,wondering what I had gotten myself into. The campsite was certainly comfortable,but I tucked myself in early feeling a good bit less sure of the venture. Day 2,in which we relearn how to cruise With a clear,calm bay I decided to head south while I could. I made for Thief Island,had a look around this spectacular little spot. I then crossed to some ledges where I found a seal colony,some of whom followed me halfway around Wreck Island. I am guessing Wreck Island was not so named when it came into the possession of James A. Wreckham in 1831. Alas there is no doubt a darker tale. Today I noticed great blue herons coming and going like O’Hare airport on a Friday afternoon. My bet is that there is a rookery there,though I didn’t spot the nests. I continued heading south and east as the wind came up from the usual southwest. By the time I was rounding Franklin Island I had a bit of chop against me,but I got great views of the pretty lighthouse there. After Franklin I headed downwind to gorgeous Harbor Island. Harbor is privately owned and is mostly wild. I landed on a lovely beach of sand and small cobbles. There were many beautiful skipping stones,and I was able to knock off a series of 10+ skips. Lunch was on a rock overlooking the beach,and,after being unable to find the trail that supposedly exists across the island,I happily lolled on the beach for a while. The wind was quite fresh as I again headed downwind to Black Island. The crossing was a little hairy,but not bad. Black proved to be a gem of a little island,a quintessential chunk of Maine coast with rocky shores and spruce forests. I pitched my tent just off the shore by some Cape Code rose bushes. This proved to be the only night I had company,as a father and two sons were already there. After exploring the island I settled in for dinner and the watched the sun set from the rocks. Sleep came much more easily.
There was always,though,one more element,floating around the back of my mind. It would be great to design and to build my own boat,but I also wanted to cruise it,and,given the size I envisioned,that meant camp-cruising. Well,as of last week,I can check that off too. Over the course of the winter I hatched and brought to life a plan to extend our family vacation to Maine by another week during which I would camp cruise some part of the Maine Island Trail in AL DEMANY CHIMAN. I am pleased to be able to report on this voyage over the course of a few posts. Once I figured out how to make this trip happen,I had to think about where to do it. I have spent a great deal of time between the Kennebec and Pemaquid Point,so that was out. Far down east was too far and remote,so that was out too. I finally dropped Deer Isle to Mt. Desert because I have also seen that area,thought not as much and not very recently. That left Casco Bay,which I have seen only a little,oddly enough,Muscongus Bay,which I hadn’t really seen,and Western Penobscot,which I have seen,but not in a while and not enough. After some kicking around,I settled on a trip from Muscongus around into southwestern Penobscot. I arrived in Maine,however,prepared to test the plan before embarking. I decided to do a shakedown trip around Rutherford Island (at the mouth of the Damariscotta River). I was glad I did,as I learned to key facts. One was that AL DEMANY CHIMAN’s biggest weakness is her ama,which I must confess,has a design flaw. In short,it was shipping fairly large amounts of water in any significant chop. This came somewhat dramatically into play as I passed out of the Thread of Life into a southwest breeze and,in rounding the island,found the ama nearly fully submerged. I remained stable,but I wasn’t going anywhere fast and had poor maneuverability. I was able to land,luckily,and dump the water,but it left me concerned. I remedied this issue to some extent afterwards through some judicious caulking,but that didn’t fully fix the issue. More on this later. I also found that I hadn’t gone nearly as far as fast as I had hoped,given that one long leg was dead upwind and a couple others were against the tide. This left me thinking my plans may have been too ambitious. In the end,therefore,I never left Muscongus Bay. While ensuring the trip would be achievable was a factor,I also realized I really wanted to focus and do a smaller area well. And this I believe I did. The decision was definitely the right one. Muscongus Bay was amazingly beautiful and had plenty to offer on its own. Below is a nice interactive map showing the whole voyage. All the stops are Maine Island Trail Association islands (their site as a really nice online guide for MITA members).
As you can see,I covered much of the bay,from Round Pond in the west to Port Clyde in the East;Havener in the north to Franklin in the south. Nearly 55 miles of paddling across five days. In subsequent posts I’ll share some pictures of the actual voyage,but this post sets the scene. So be looking for more.
The outing was at Leesylvania State Park,VA. It was a pretty typical summer morning here –still and hot. A great blue heron sat majestically in a tree and ospreys circled here and about. I wanted to do a long,straight outing to get a sense of speed,so I just crossed the river and back. As best I can figure I did 3 knots-ish going at a modest,comfortable pace. Bigger adventures now await… As a father of a child afflicted with autism and as a avid supporter of boatbuilding and boat adventures I was in love with news in Chesapeake Light Craft’s e-newsletter today of a great new voyage. Neil Calore is a Philadelphia firefighter who built a CLC Northeaster Dory as part of a CLC class last year. He is planning to row and sail it from here in Washington,DC to New York City,a distance of 425 miles. His effort will be a fundraiser for Autism Speaks,a leading autism research and advocacy organization. I don’t know Neil,but I love everything about this project and I hope you will join me in supporting this voyage. Update:Neil has a blog on the voyage we need to follow. I had not been aware that in the Persian Gulf region they sail modern racing dhows. Imagine a sandbagger crossed with a traditional lateen rig crossed with modern construction and rigging. These look fun fun fun! Fusion of Tradition-y too. Thanks to WoodenBoat‘s My Wooden Boat of the Week blog for the link and back story. | ||
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