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Posted on November 16th, 2007
I decided it might be helpful for folks that are coming to see info about my Peace Canoe, PEACE OF THE PUZZLE, to have a little better overview page for the project. Below, therefore, please find a list of all the related posts, along with the topics covered.
I hope this series is fun and useful! Enjoy PEACE OF THE PUZZLE!
Posted on October 14th, 2007
Gorgeous October day here outside DC, a perfect day to be on the water. Gulls and an osprey wheeling about, gusty nor’wester keeping things clear and cool, the pleasant surroundings of Mason Neck State Park (map) – just the environment to christen and launch the Peace Canoe. So christen it we did (the kids helped), using the very nastiest champaign I could inadvertently pick up. She is now PEACE OF THE PUZZLE. Enjoy some pictures of her first outing (we were lucky enough to come upon some friendly kayakers, one of whom took our picture and was kind enough to send it).
Thank you to all who have read about PEACE OF THE PUZZLE’s birth and provided encouragement along the way. It was a blast and I look forward to some great family adventures ahead!
Posted on October 14th, 2007
So we have a short paddle in PEACE OF THE PUZZLE under our belts now. I spent a couple months building it (a few have asked me for hours – I have no idea, but it was a good many) – aftre all that work, what is this boat like? Obviously I’ll need much more time to assess, but some initial thoughts:
Strengths:
- Appearance – The Peace Canoe is a pretty boat, no question about it, particularly in the water. We got compliments on and off the water, including things like “unusual,” in a very complimentary sense. I expect we’ll get noticed in this boat for the right reasons.
- Stability – This boat will be a good family boat. I am fairly confident that one could have half the Rockettes do a kick-line on the starboard rail and she wouldn’t go over. In more practical terms, this means a good boat for a family with young children (check) and a good boat for fishing (seems like a good idea).
- Tracking – Of course being long and not very rockered, the boat seems to track pretty well.
Weaknesses:
- Weight – The boat is a lot heavier than I expected it would be. It is basically unmanageable alone, and even my wife and I, two reasonably strong adults, had to work a bit to put it on the car.
- Beam – The stability is a plus, but it comes from being quite beamy. With the sides flared as they are, the boat actually does not fit upside down on our standard car roof-rack. It rode OK right-side up, but I wasn’t wildly comfortable with it like that. I will need to get some additional attachments, and it will be fine, but it isn’t as car-topable as it might seem.
- Freeboard – Maybe it is a function of the weight, but with four of us in the boat – and two of us are small children – the boat sat deeper in the water than I expected, leaving less freeboard than I might like for more open water. I had been planning on trips in the Bay and such, but I will be a bit more cautious for those ventures. This may be more of a true flatwater boat.
More as I learn more… In particular, I haven’t gotten much of a feel for core paddling ability. The weight seems like a slowing factor, but we’ll see.
Posted on October 13th, 2007
I have spent much of my free daylight hours over the last couple weeks putting paint on the Peace Canoe. Today, at about 10:30 AM local, I made some final touch-ups and called her done.

Obviously there are little things that make me cringe (that only I will likely notice, for the most part), but on the whole, I am pleased with the boat. If I do say so, the colors work well. I agonized a bit on this point, so it is good that the results are so positive.


Part of the reason the results are so good is that the design is a good one. I had moved the boat into the front yard to paint (we have an oak the rains acorns), and as I began to see the boat from a shallow angle on the port side, I began to fall in love with the sheer.

Well done, John Harris.

By the way, I wish I had moved to the front yard months ago. I have gotten tons of complements from folks walking by (we live on a main path to the local coffee shop), as well as several drive-bys (including a “Damn! Good job, sir!” from a dude in a utility van). It has been a thrill. Of course, if I had been working there earlier, there may have been more commentary on the work in progress (“yes, I DO know that that piece is cracked!!!”)…
Posted on October 1st, 2007
And after a couple weeks of planing and sanding and one final clean-up, she is ready to paint. Voila!

I have also chosen the colors, not an easy task for me. She will look something like this:

Posted on September 8th, 2007
And then, after a final push, in the gathering twilight, the Peace Canoe had a bottom. And that, gentle readers, means she is structurally complete. Houston, we have a boat!

Just a whole lotta planning and sanding, plus a mother lode of plastic wood, and we will be cracking open a paint can or four!

Posted on August 31st, 2007
At long last, I believe I have the sheer clamps replaced in a working manner. Man, oh man, was that an mistake that added time to the project! Just getting the broken ones off took several nights of careful digging for the nails with a tack-puller and cutting the goop with a utility knife. Exhausting and frustrating. But, I persevered. And now, I am ready to move forward!

So it looks pretty good. That there is a boat. So let’s see… what next…
Oh the bottom!

Actually, I think this is kind of a neat picture.

I was finally able to test-fit the bottom panels. Getting close…
Posted on August 5th, 2007
At the beginning of Howard Chapelle’s seminal tome Boatbuilding, there is a 4-page introduction in which Chapelle goes through the entire building process at a 10,000′ level. After talking through getting out molds, cutting the rabbet, and installing deck beams, Chapelle devotes the final paragraph to a subject that one must assume is of equal importance to the others: the “moaning chair.” He writes:
In every amateur boatbuilder’s shop there should be a “moaning chair”; this should be a comfortable seat from which the boat can be easily seen and in which the builder can sit, smoke, chew, drink, or swear as the moment demands.
I raise this, obviously, because I have had to spend some time in my own “moaning chair” of late, and since I don’t smoke or chew and had already had my nightly beer, it was swearing that was the business of the day.
You will notice two things in this recent picture. On the good news front, I finally have attached the seats to one side panel unit and then attached the other side panel unit to the opposite sides of the seats and brought both sides together at the stem and stern post. In doing that, I should have been working with completed side panel units, chine log and sheer clamp attached. So what are those clamps doing along the sheer, you may ask? Therein lies a tale…
Things were going fairly well. I got the seats and one side attached fine and the middle seat went onto the second side without a fuss. I then was able to get the forward seat attached to the second side. The bow was coming together. I then moved to the stern to pull the aft end together. I was feeling great – the boat was taking shape before me. As I began to pull the sides in to test, I was suddenly greeted by a sickening crack. I looked up to see the scarf joint in the starboard sheer clamp parted. Major buzz kill.
It seemed initially like the error was placing the joint right at the middle seat, where the sides are forced outward to the maximum beam. I dejectedly put the project to bed for the night, and, after mulling options for a couple days, decided to take out a roughly 6′ section of the sheer clamp and scarf in a new piece which straddled the middle seat. Getting the old piece off was a bear with all the 3M 5200 in there, but I did it without messing up the side panel very badly. I then got the new piece to fit nicely and added some additional screws to keep it all together. After that multi-day set-back, I was able to turn to bringing the ends together once again.
And therein lay another issue. I had misgivings on earlier attempts to test this, but when I was back on track and able to seriously try this task I discovered that the stem bevels I had faithfully taken from the Getting Started in Boats write-up were not even close. I had another couple days of sitting in meetings at work and trying to concentrate while ruminating on whether I should work the current stem and stern post or replace them. In the end, I decided the stern post was not far off, and I took a plane to the side that wasn’t fitting and got it right. Thank goodness the angle was too wide. The bow was really far off, but I decided to do the same. You can see in the picture how much I had to shave; the two laminated planks started the same width. Anyone who closely inspects the inside edge of the stem will find it isn’t perpendicular to the center-line, but I think I can get a pass on it.
I am not sure where I got so off with the bevels, because I am pretty sure my measurements were in lines with the plans. I think the issue does speak to a significant risk with building this boat, or any boat, in the manner the designer, John Harris, specifies. In most modern boatbuilding, one begins with a known set of truths: some combination of a level strongback, specified frames, a fixed centerline, and, probably, fixed ends. These elements for reference points the builder can rely on to check him/herself as s/he moves through the process. With the Peace Canoe, there are no frames or other fixed elements. You take measurements off the plywood sheets and, once you have made those cuts, you reference points are gone. You have no easy way to check something like your seat placements, which, in this case, are critical in forming the shape of the boat. This is because the location is set vs. the edge of the plywood, not anything you can look at on the boat itself. It is, as I have become fond of saying, boatbuilding without a net. I would strongly encourage Mr. Harris to continue to pursue ways to make boatbuilding easier for novices to access, but I worry he lost something important along the path to simplicity.
So now I was ready to finally bring the ends together, which I did. And as I looked up from the finished bow and sighted down the length of the boat… two more sheer clamp scarfs had parted. One was one of the joints from the first repair and the other was the port side one (originally there was one joint per side). Now it was clear there was a bigger issue. I did a little research, and I believe I have discovered the roots of my problem. The Getting Started in Boats write-up does not specify exactly how to do the scarfs, particularly how they ought to be oriented. It does say something to the effect that they should be 8:1, which for 3/4″ stock, means 6″. Against some doubt in the back of my mind I took that mean the scarf should be along the 3/4″ side of the sheer clamps, which are 3/4″ x 1″. Bad idea. What this does is put the scarf horizontal, and I believe that is not a good thing – there isn’t enough holding power in such a case once there is a bending force applied. The scarfs should have been vertical, and I have now cut out new sheet clamps with vertical scarfs. Next up: the fun of removing the existing ones in toto. Joy.
So for those settling down with the write-up, beware this point. Maybe I should have known this, but many using this won’t yet have the knowledge to realize the error. The write-up needs more clarification on this point.
Anyway, the bottom is ready to install now, as soon as I can get the sheer clamps fixed. Ugh. Where did I leave that “moaning chair?”
Posted on July 12th, 2007

Voila, the seats are ready. I have been working on them at night or during glue cures, and they have come along well. Here is the middle one. The plans specify cut-outs on the ends of the seats; I added my own flavor of these cut-outs.
I have also installed both chine logs, and last night the bow and stern stems on one side. Here is my handiwork on the bevel for the chine logs meeting the stems, since I moved them inboard. It wasn’t too bad to cut and my joints are close enough. I am ready to begin the process of attaching the seats to one side panel and then the other. Stay tuned…

Posted on June 28th, 2007
So I got the plywood, some good quality, from what I can tell, marine fir. That in hand, it was time to start getting big pieces together, starting with the sides.

The plans call for five 4×8 sheets of 1/4″ plywood, 2 1/3 of which go into the sides. The Getting Started in Boats write-up assumes one has a nice, big, level area on which to do the layout. I was using our lawn, that leaves a bit to be desired in the “level” dept. To keep things in line, I used clamps to keep the sheets aligned while I plotted the side panels. I was blessed with a) having spline weights from my design dabbling and b) having a nice off-cut of 12′ 1x that was a perfect batten. I had to pend a bunch of time and hands-and-knees with a straightedge and pencil, but I was able to get the sides out fairly easily.
The design is tailored to creating full sub-assemblies like this and fitting them together into the whole. Thus one builds the sides out, with sheer clamps and chine logs attached, the full seats, and the bottom panel, with keel attached, and then brings the sides together around the seats. There are no forms; the seats provide the athwartships dimension when they are installed “in real time.” I decided to get the sides done first and just rough-cut the bottom panels because, since I am moving the chine log in-board, these panels will have different dimensions than the plans. I’ll allow myself enough and then fit them to the actual bottom area when the sides come together.
The pieces of the side panels are to be joined via butt blocks. These butt blocks are defined nowhere in the write-up, except that they are 6″ wide. I took their length from the relevant station on the plans (they all overlap a station perfectly), leaving some wiggle room. I used some pieces of spruce 1x I had around, planning them down to 1/2″ (the plans call for 3/4″ bronze ring nails, so 1/2″ blocks plus 1/4″ plywood would fit perfectly). The write-up call for gluing the block to each piece of the panel and then nailing the block to the sides. The clear assumption is that the block is less than 1/2″ because it talks about hammering the ends back over. That just seems so sloppy to me.
I glued up the block and one of the pieces and then used spring clamps to hold the block in place. I then carefully flipped the work and nailed through the side piece into the block, using a metal file to take down the slightly protruding nails. I then flipped the work back, added glue to the adjacent side piece, clamped it, flipped it, and nailed that. This worked well. I just bought the spring clamps, and I have no idea how I have survived without them. They have been invaluable on this project and I suspect I will put many miles on them. I got 6 fairly basic ones and that is perfect in number and quality.
One problem I did have with my method is that the butt blocks proved fairly fragile. You need to be very careful moving the panel around, once brought together as the weight of the pieces creates significant pressure at the joints. I learned that the hard way, and had to add an extra block when one of mine split. I attribute this not only to the stresses of the large panel, but also to my choice of lumber. I think in the future I would glue spare pieces of the 1/4″ plywood together into a 1/2″ laminate and use them. The grain of the 1x was running exactly where it was most likely to fail under bending stress and I missed that. I also put the nails too close together, helping open up the splits. There is no specific guidance on this, but I moved to 4″ centers, staggered a bit, with better results.
What I would most strongly recommend regarding this last point, however, is to not move the panel much until you get the sheer clamp and chine log on as these stiffen the panel up much better. I would prepare both in advance and add at least the sheer clamp immediately after completing the butt block step. There is no reason you can’t and it will make things much safer.
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